Restaurant Review


I love fusion food.  I think humans crave variety on the palate, and puttering with ingredients and borrowing cooking methods is as old as time.  Many credit the Chinese with developing the noodle, and the Italians simply adopting its greatness (although I’m a fan of theory that Italians developed it on independently from the gnocchi – little dumplings I do rather adore).  More recently, Wolfgang Puck is seen as the spark that started the fusion food movement.  He melded his French chef training with California ingredients and Asian flavors to create something everyone wanted more of.  If you’ve ever enjoyed BBQ chicken pizza, you have Wolfgang Puck to thank (or blame….).  My first encounter with Fusion Dining was Roy’s Pacific Rim Cuisine.  Roy Yamaguchi started with a restaurant in Hawaii in the late 80’s, and opened a Roy’s in the Hilton Hotel in Seattle in the early nineties.  It isn’t there anymore, but they put out great dishes that were pretty novel at the time.  They did have a penchant for tall food, which is a beautiful tower of food that collapses when you try to actually eat it.  Always tasty, though.  But pricey – we’d have to save up for a trip to Roy’s.  Roy’s is gone from Seattle now (though they have a dozen other locations around the Country), but that food is now standard fare on menus everywhere.  Fusion food is fun, and it is hard to go wrong.  OK, you can go a bit wrong (you are doing something bad if you put bacon, an unclean food according to the Kashrut, into a bagel – a traditional Jewish food), but generally I’m a fan of innovation in food.  Oh, mistakes get made – when I’m getting a bit full of myself, my wife still brings up the olive waffle fiasco.  But on to today’s review.  A new fusion eatery opened recently in Tacoma – Takos Koreanos (8425 S Hosmer St, Tacoma, WA 98444).  If you’ve been wondering what a Korean Taco would taste like, now is your moment.  Spoiler alert – it is pretty darn good.  I’ve been there a couple times.  It is a beautiful space – clean, nice materials everywhere, big windows.  The food is fun – all the great flavors you expect from Korean food, in the tortillas you don’t expect.  They do a great job balancing taste and texture and quantity – it is really nicely done.  No, the tortillas don’t seem to be house made – but you can’t have it all.  They do have some great sauces to put on the tacos – in squirt bottles just like my favorite taquerias.  I like their Kalbi taco and the bulgogi burrito, but I’ve not had anything I haven’t enjoyed there.  They have quite a few veggie options as well (the miso eggplant is notable).  The Korean Fries are pretty tasty – sort of a Korean Poutine.  If you love Korean food, you’ll have a fun meal.  If you’ve never tried Korean, it is an easy spot to ease into one of the World’s great cuisines.  As long as I’m talking Korean fusion, the burgers from Burger Seoul (the Korean burger truck at 1750 S Prospect, Tacoma, WA) are worth the trip.  They crank out juicy masterpieces – so grab a few extra napkins.  The Bulgogier is the bomb – it if doesn’t light up your day, I don’t know what to say.  

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